Did you know that you could play sound using an usb to uart/serial converter, by just using an FT232RL usbserial and an external speaker with amplifier? Let’s take a look at the software side first, the basic idea is to send bytes purposedly crafted to create some sort of PWM. So we have 8 bits each byte sent, which mean 8 levels, kinda crappy if you like hi-fi sound, but that’s not the purpose of this hack obviously. So the easiest way is to send these bytes for each level Level Bits -4 00000000 -3 10000000 -2 11000000 -1 11100000 0 11110000 1 11111000 2 11111100 3 11111110 4 11111111 A simple python script with pyserial can easily do it, by taking bytes from stdin coming from a raw mono s8 pcm file, to the usbserial.

WA801ND v3 Hardware overview Some weeks ago i’ve succesfully ported OpenWRT to the TP-Link TL WA801ND v3, that access point features 2×2 MIMO, detachable antennas, 32 MBytes of ram and 4 Mbytes of flash. It is based, like most new tp-link devices on a qualcomm atheros system on chip ( QCA9533-BL3A) which integrates the MIPS core, ethernet switch and wifi hardware. Accessing the WA801ND serial port Out of the box even if the serial header is present and has the typical TP-Link pinout, it won’t work, because some resistors are missing from the board, namely R105 and R107.

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Solder bridge on R105 required to receive data from the serial port Solder bridge on R107 to allow sending to serial port The serial port settings are, as usual 115200 baud and to enter uboot prompt you have to quickly type “tpl” when it says that it is waiting 1 second. Installing from the web interface OpenWRT trunk builds can be installed using the original tp-link firmware from the web interface. In order to do that download openwrt trunk build for the device, under the directory ar71xx there should be in trunk a file named openwrt-ar71xx-generic-tl-wa801nd-v3-squashfs-factory.bin, download it and rename it to a.bin ( tested working, but maybe anything works ), and use it to upgrade the access point from the web interface. Once you uploaded the file, wait for the device to reboot, when it reboots currently, no leds will be lit. That’s because by default no led is assigned to anything, maybe i should do some patch to fix that in the future. To configure it connect with ssh to 192.168.1.1 ( DHCP should be enabled by default too ), or if you have built an image with luci, just navigate to.

Since very few information is available on repairing UBNT Nanostation M5 Loco ( probably the same for M2 ), i am going to post here and keep updating that post with the main kinds of failure encountered with their eventual repair To do these repairs since the board contains big ground planes, you absolutely need to preheat it to at least 120 C° before using soldering iron or smd rework station. Andromede 5 Cracks there. UBNT Nanostation loco m5 PCB Types of failure PoE shorted, power supply led blinks as a consequence of that This can be caused by shorted D5 diode ( look for the big black square diode on the left of the ethernet port ), replace it with another one or if you are in an hurry and willing to risk, just remove it. Ethernet port goes only at 10 Mbit ( but usually won’t work at all even if it says that ), or no link is detected This is the trickiest damage, i’ve tried replacing ethernet transformer where it was evidently burned ( one winding open ), but even after that i only got from “no link” to “10Mbit”, so either other components shorted or in that case the SoC is damaged and no repair is worth to do.

The nanostation will only go into firmware recovery mode ( 4 leds blinking ) That kind of failure can be caused by remote reset NPN transistor damaged, replace or remove ( if you don’t need remote reset ) Q503, you can find it on the right of the reset switch, beware that this kind of failure can be also caused by broken switch, so check first with a multimeter if the switch is working properly, also check that the one on the PoE injector is not broken. Have you ever wondered how a bubble looks like while popping? If you think it just “disappears”, you are wrong, and provided you have a decent flash and a camera that allows you to use something like 10sec shutter speed, then you can take such photos with just a relay module and an Arduino.

The idea to trigger the flash at the right moment is to form with the end of a wire an “O” shape and then with another wire, when the bubble touches the wire, it will shortly conduct some current that can be used to trigger the flash. But as you can imagine it’s not that easy doing it, the bubble is very thin and it will conduct only for a fraction of second before poppin, its resistance will be around 10 megaohms, so either you need to build a GOOD low noise amplifier or just use the trick i’m going to explain. If you have some experience with electronics you already know that a wire has a certain capacitance caused by surrounding stuff and air as dielectric, otherwise, well, now you do.