I have an aquabot pool cleaner and pump motor stopped working. If you disassemble it the oil inside runs out.

I really only need to know what type of oil to use to replace it. The 35V motor has 4 capacitors to jump start it. I have replaced the capacitors once before in my own machine without loosing the oil and reusing it. Successful long term repair accomplished. This one is a relatives of mine who lost the oil and I don't want to replace capacitors, only to ruin successful job by putting the wrong oil in it. Does anyone know what type of can be used in this motor?

Good afternoon to lojo. Houghton Mifflin Alpha Friends Cds. Can you provide more info on your AQUABOT pump motor repair? I am interested in the 4 capacitors you mention you replaced. Can you tell me the values of the 4 capacitors?

How are the 4 capacitors wired together? Can you post a pix of the 4 capacitors? As far as replacement oil for refilling the motor, I have used compressor oil quite successfully for refilling an Aquabot DRIVE motor. Compressor oil is available at most local hardwares like ACE or TRUE-VALUE.

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It should also work well in the AQUABOT pump motor. Ed, It's very important to take note of the connections of motor wires to each end of the capacitor loop, I believe, or the motor might run backwards. I'm no electronics expert, but I can copy what the manufacturer did, which is what I did. The caps have + and - ends, but in my circuit I found + to + connections, and I found - to - connections. The caps seem to have arrows drawn on the side to indicate flow and I just match up the arrow flow the same way it was before I take it apart. Actia Multi Diag Keygen there. I call the arrow point end + and the end away from the point -. As far as the values of the caps, that is printed on the side of the caps inside the motor.

I've done two pump motors now successfully, with slightly different values because of age and design, but both Aquabots. One, ( the older one ) had a printed circuit board that the caps were soldered to. The newer one didn't, but it had slightly higher value caps encased in an epoxy resin that you have to carefully remove them from so you can still read the values and + or - connections in the loop. Try WD40 to loosen the resin hold on the caps, it helped me. I've noticed both motor's caps had the same voltage (35V I believe ) while the older one's micro fad (uf) value was 435 and the newer one was 480.

I bought them on ebay in an electronics store. I hope this helps.

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