88 Key Controller Keyboard • Weighted hammer action keyboard TP/100LR with Aftertouch • 6 Way joystick control • 3 Function buttons • 4 Programmable zones • 4 Programmable pedal connectors • 3 Joystick controllers • TFT colour display (320 x 240 px) • Editable and programmable software (SL Editor) • Programmable Key-Balance function • 6 Editable velocity curves • Magnetic rail system for holding sheet music and laptop (holders not included) • Dimensions (L x W x H): 1260 x 310 x 117 mm • Weight: 13.7 kg • Power adapter (9 V DC, 1 A) and PS 100 sustain pedal included. I bought this primarily for home studio use and for the occasional gig to pair with my Nord Electro 5D. It's a relatively light 88 key weighted controller with an uncluttered layout with a bright, clear colour screen. It's unusual because it has very few programmable controls - so there are no faders or programmable knobs and switches. What you get instead are 3 joysticks - more on this later. It has excellent MIDI and USB connectivity and features 4 connections for foot pedals. The instrument was very well packed and came with a manual on CD, a PS-100 sustain pedal and a universal power adapter with plug attachments for various countries.

The SL88 has a clean uncluttered design with a metal chassis, plastic end cheeks and looks great. The keybed is the Fatar TP/100LR with aftertouch which is the same one Nord uses in the Electro HP. Despite reading a few negative reviews of the TP/100 action I have to say that I like the action, it's close enough to a real piano action for me and is a perfect match for the Nord pianos.

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It's not too heavy or sluggish compared to the Roland RD64 which has the Ivory Feel-G keybed. In use I was able to get the right keyboard response just using the preset velocity curves. There are another 6 user setups.

This is programmed using the SL88 editor which installed and ran with no problems. You can also adjust the key balance of each note independently and the key balance between black and white keys - so you can have a lighter touch on the back keys and heavier on the white.

I suspect this might be similar to the software Nord use when setting up their keyboards. At first the supplied SL88 software seemed the best way to edit the controller but there are some features that need to be improved. On the Global/MIDI setup page you have to manually select the USB port to connect with the SL88 - it does not auto sense that it's there. You then discover there are 2 USB ports for the SL88 and you must connect to port 2, nothing in the manual about this. This setting is not stored and you have to set it up every time you start the editor.

It is very quick to program the four zones except for the key zones which can only be changed using the on screen knob. Neon Genesis Evangelion Episode 2 English Dub Download. It should be possible to play a key to set upper and lower limits! Syncing your setups could also be improved as you have to transfer and save them to the computer first, then sync them back. You can't simply edit the setups you have copied from the the SL88.

You can't even rename your setups - you have to edit them, then drag and drop using organise then re-sync them with the hardware. I gave up with the software and now do everything 'live' on the SL88.

So big thumbs down unless they update it. OK then so what it's like editing the SL88 directly? In a word, counter-intuitive - er that's two words. Even though there are only 3 main buttons I found I was always pressing the wrong one. There is also a button on the entry data entry stick but it is not that obvious what it does at first.

Now it might just be me but I have no problems getting around a Nord Electro or even a MOXF. I am pleased to say the having stuck with it for 2 weeks I can program setups very quickly but it was very frustrating at first. It still amazes me that you can't program key zones by pressing a key on the keyboard but the colour screen helps. The 3 joysticks (which are small) are completely programmable per patch but many players will miss the standard pitch and mod wheels. They have tried to make them as flexible as possible by having fully sprung, half sprung and not sprung at all. However, in practice the fully sprung one is best used like the Roland Bender - which means you can't leave the Mod (Y-axis) in the sweet spot.